To make a tough garage floor cover last, the first key thing is to check the floor well. If you skip this, it can peel, bubble, or fail and will cost a lot of time and money to fix. Here are things to look at:

• Surface Check: Look for cracks, oil spots, old covers, and if water soaks in. Fix cracks bigger than 1/8 inch and sort out uneven spots over 1/4 inch.
• Dryness: Hidden water can wreck the cover. Use gear like moisture meters, calcium chloride tests, or RH tests to make sure the floor is dry enough.
• Air and Temp: Keep the air and temp right (55°F–90°F) for the best putting on and drying.

How to Get Ready:

1. Clean Well: Get rid of dirt, oil, and tire marks with strong cleaners.
2. Fix Damage: Fill in cracks and make uneven spots smooth before covering.
3. Make the Surface Rough: Use grinding or acid etching to help the cover stick better.

Places like Croc Coatings have clear steps to check, get ready, and put on their Penntek Evolution system, which is way stronger than normal epoxy. Good prep means a smooth and strong finish that sticks around for years.

Key Point: A well-done floor is the base of a tough and good-looking garage cover. Take your time to check, clean, fix, and get ready before you put any cover on. For top-notch results, think about using pros like Croc Coatings.

How To Prep for Floor Coatings | Cracks and Saw Cuts

Look Over Your Garage Floor

When you first see it, your garage floor might seem hard and set for new paint. But if you look closer, you might find hidden problems, like cracks, oil spots, or old sealers. These can stop the paint from sticking well or make it peel off later.

Spotting Surface Issues

Walk slowly over your garage floor and check it all. Watch for cracks, chips, places where the concrete has flaked, and bumps. Mark tiny cracks with chalk, as they might get bigger and show up under the paint later.

If a crack is wider than 1/8 inch, fix it before you paint. Use a straightedge or a long level to find dips or high spots. Changes more than 1/4 inch over 10 feet will need smoothing or filling to make the floor even.

Pay close attention to expansion and control joints – these are gaps in the concrete made to stop cracking. These gaps can have dirt, junk, and water in them. Look for loose concrete or gaps that need cleaning and filling.

Also, look for spalling and scaling, signs of damaged concrete. This can happen from cold cycles, hard hits, or bad finishing when the concrete was laid. If you don’t fix these, they could ruin how tough and good your paint looks.

Checking for Old Paint and Stains

Oil stains are a big problem for your paint job. Oil can sink into the concrete, stopping new paint from sticking. To test for oil, drip some water on the floor. If the water forms beads, there’s likely oil there.

For spots with old paint, use the coin test. Rub a coin over the floor to see if there’s any old paint, epoxy, or sealers left. Even if you hardly see these old layers, they can stop new paint from sticking. The coin test will scratch the surface and show if there’s a paint layer there.

Efflorescence, which looks like white, powdery stuff, is another thing to watch for. It happens when water moves through concrete, bringing salts to the surface. Scrub these deposits off with a hard brush. If they come back in a few days, it means there’s still a water problem.

Don’t ignore tire marks and rubber bits from hot tires. These black marks stick to the concrete and are hard to clean off. If you don’t handle these spots, they can block your paint from sticking well.

Tools Needed for Checking the Surface

You don’t need costly tools to check your garage floor, but the right tools can make your job easier later. Here’s what you’ll need:

• An LED flashlight: Aim it low to light up cracks and bad spots. Shadows will help you find trouble spots.
• A 4-foot level or straightedge: Use it to spot high and low areas. Any gap wider than a nickel under it means the spot needs some work.
• Chalk or a marker: Mark all cracks, stains, and bad spots. This will help you see where to work when you start.
• A moisture meter: This tool checks if your concrete is dry enough for a coat. For instance, the Penntek Evolution system needs certain dry levels to keep its promise.
• A scraper or putty knife: Use this to check for weak concrete, old coats, or dirt. If stuff scrapes off easy, the spot needs more prepping.
• Duct tape: Stick a piece on spots you doubt and yank it off. If bits stick to the tape, that spot needs more cleaning or prepping.

After you spot all flaws, you can test for moisture and air around to make sure the floor is ready for a new coat.

Test for Wetness and Air

Your garage floor may seem dry, but secret wet spots can ruin your paint job. They may cause bubbling, peeling or make the coat fail too soon. Also, the air’s heat and wetness are key in how well your paint sticks and dries.

How to Check for Wetness

Concrete may be wet even if it looks dry. One good way to find out is the calcium chloride test. Here’s what to do: put a small dish of calcium chloride under a plastic cover on your floor. Wait there for 60 to 72 hours. The crystals soak up wetness, and by weighing them before and after, you can tell how much wetness comes out from the floor.

A fast way is to use a concrete wetness meter. These have pins that go into the top of the floor and show you a quick number. But recall, they only test the surface. When using systems like the Penntek Evolution by Croc Coatings, the floor must meet set wetness limits to keep the lifetime warranty.

Another sure way is the relative humidity (RH) test. It checks for wet deeper in the slab. You drill holes about 40% deep into the concrete and put probes in for 24 hours. Most paints need RH levels under 75% to stick right.

Rising wet vapor through the floor is another big problem. It can lift the paint, making white spots, bubbles, or peeling. This often happens in new slabs or spots where wet comes in from below, like crawl spaces or basements. Checking for wet vapor moving can help you avoid later troubles.

Once you have the wet under check, ensure the air’s heat and wetness are in a good range for the paint to dry and stick right.

Check for Heat and Wetness

The heat and wetness in the air are as important as how wet the floor is when painting. Cold slows down drying and can soften the paint, while too much heat hurries it and can make it dry uneven. Paint usually works best in heat between 55°F and 90°F.

Too much wetness in the air can mess up the drying, causing whitening, bubbles, or peeling. To dodge this, use a digital meter on the day you set it up to check that both air and floor heat, and wetness levels are right.

Set it up in late spring or early fall for mild heat and less air wetness, making great conditions for drying and bonding. Try to work in the warmest part of the day for even drying. Watch out for cold at night as it can mess with the drying process.

One thing to keep in mind: concrete keeps its cool or heat longer than air. A cold slab from winter might still feel cold, even if the air is warm. Use a heat-checking tool to see how warm the concrete is before you start.

In cold places, usual covers might need heaters or quick walls to keep the right warm levels. If you choose this way, watch out for too-hot spots or big wet air changes. On the other hand, the Penntek Evolution system that Croc Coatings uses can deal with heat and wet air shifts better than the normal epoxy covers, making it a better choice for more uses.

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Getting the Garage Floor Ready for Coating

Once you’ve made sure there’s no moisture and the conditions are right, you move to getting the concrete ready. This means you clean it, fix it, and make it a bit rough so the coating sticks well. A floor that’s ready well is key for a coating that lasts.

Cleaning and Taking Out Grease

Begin by really cleaning the floor to remove dust, dirt, and any bad stuff. Use a broom to sweep up dirt and scrub off what’s built up on the floor.

Oil and grease can stop the coating from sticking right. Normal cleaners will not work here. You need to use a special concrete degreaser made to tackle car fluids. Put the degreaser on stained places, leave it for 15–20 minutes, then scrub hard with a brush. Look closely at places where cars often park, as these spots might have old oil. If needed, use a high-pressure water cleaner to get rid of the grime that’s come loose, but make sure the concrete is totally dry before you do anything else.

White, chalky stuff you see on concrete also needs to go. This stuff can keep the coating from sticking. Get a cleaner made to remove it and follow all the safe steps. Also, clean tire marks and rubber bits with the right products that don’t harm the concrete.

When the floor is clean, check for any big damage.

Fixing Cracks and Damage

Fixing cracks and damage is key so the coating works well. Even small cracks can cause the coating to fail if you ignore them. The way you fix it depends on how bad the damage is.

For very small cracks, use a flexible filler that can handle concrete getting bigger and smaller. Use it as the label says for the best fix.

For bigger cracks and holes, you need a tough filler. If the cracks are wide, you might have to make them bigger with a tool to make sure the filler sticks right. For spots where the concrete has broken off, get rid of all the loose bits with a hammer, chisel, or tool. You need clean, solid edges for the patch to stick. Let the fixes dry completely, usually 24–48 hours depending on the air, and make sure the fixed spots are even with the floor before going on.

Making the Surface Rough for Better Stick

After cleaning and fixing, the last step is to make the surface textured to help the coating hold on. Smooth concrete can’t hold coatings well, so you need to make it rougher. The way you do it depends on how your floor is and what the coating needs.

Acid etching is a way to make the top of the surface soft and rough. Mix weak muriatic acid (always put acid into water, not the other way), wait for 5–10 minutes, stop it with baking soda, and wash well. This method is good for new or soft concrete but may not work for harder ones.

Mechanical grinding gives even results and more control. With a concrete grinder and diamond discs, you can take off the top part of the concrete. This way, you make the surface even and clean.

Shot blasting is also a good choice. It uses steel shot sped up to add texture. This method is top for big areas and gives great results, but it needs gear that most people do not have.

For instance, Croc Coatings uses the Penntek Evolution system, which needs a certain roughness . Grinding is the best way as it helps the heavy coating stick well to the concrete.

To check your work, touch the surface – it should feel like medium sandpaper. It needs to be rough enough for the coat to stick but not too bumpy that it makes high and low spots.

Last Look and Needs

To make sure your garage floor is strong and looks like a pro did it, it’s key to check everything one last time. Good prep and hitting all coat needs will stop future troubles like bubbles, weak stick, or cracks.

Checking Coat System Needs

Each coat type has its own rules for working right and keeping its promise. For example, the Penntek Evolution system from Croc Coatings – made to be four times tougher than normal epoxy – needs careful prep to work best. Here’s what to look at:

• Surface Feel: Make sure the floor feels right for a strong stick.
• Water Levels: Do a final check for water to see it’s not too much. Even a little can make bubbles or weak stick.
• Air Steadiness: Keep air temp steady and watch out for too much wet air, as big changes can mess up drying and cause cracks or soft spots.
• Surface Clean: Be sure the floor is totally clean from dust, oil, or wash stuff, as these can block the coat from sticking well.

When these system needs are met, focus on the work area to make sure it helps the coat go on right.

Last Work Area and Air Check

The work area is key for a perfect coat job. Make sure of the following:

• Air Temp Control: Keep the air temp the same and in the suggested span during putting it on and as it dries.
• Air Wetness Control: Keep air wetness low to dodge drying problems.
• Clean Space: Clear out any dirt or water from the space to keep it best for the coat work.

End and What to Do Next

Taking the right amount of time to check and set up your floor is key to stop high-cost failed coats that can hurt your cash put in. These main steps make sure the end look lasts a long time.

We’ve gone through the must-do tasks: look over the floor for any harm, check water levels, see how the area around is, and get the work space ready. All these tasks make a strong base for a coat that will hold up. Moves like using hard bits to smooth the floor and fixing breaks or oil marks make a flat, tough space that can take many years of use.

At Croc Coatings, Jim and Kelley Hobart use careful plans and top skill to build their work. Their one-day set up starts with a full floor check to make sure all their work hits their high marks. With their special Penntek Evolution tool, they focus on right floor set up to give results that last a lifetime. When done by pros, ways like smoothing and blasting are done right, making sure even the hard-to-prep concrete is ready.

Want a new garage floor? Get your pro check today by going to Croc Coatings. Their skilled group is proud to serve North Idaho and Eastern Washington, which includes Spokane and the Tri-Cities area.

Do not miss the check step – it makes the difference between a floor that stays good for ages and one that breaks too soon.

FAQs

How do I make my garage floor ready for a concrete coat?

To prep your garage floor for a concrete coat, first clean it well. Get rid of all dirt, oil, and mess for a clean base. Then, fix any crack or rough spots to make it smooth and even. Next, etch or grind the concrete so it opens up and the coat sticks well. Also, check for wet areas and how the concrete soaks up water to be sure the floor is all set for the coat. Doing these steps is key to getting a tough, lasting coat.

For an great concrete coat, think about Croc Coatings. Their Penntek Evolution system is 4x tougher than epoxy and can be put on in just one day!

How can I check for hidden water in my garage floor before putting a concrete cover on it?

To see if there’s trapped water in your garage floor, do the plastic sheet test. Just put a clear plastic sheet on the floor and seal it with tape. Leave it there for 48 hours. If you spot water or feel wetness under the plastic, it means there is water there.

For a better check, think about using tools like a calcium chloride test or a relative humidity meter. These tools can show you exact numbers for how much water is in the concrete. Make sure to take care of any water issues before you put a concrete cover on, to make sure it stays good and works right.

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